V-Baby List of Components

Here is a list with links to all the recommended components for the stock V-Baby CoreXY High Quality DIY 3d Printer

• Controller Mainboard – 1x
  The stock controller for the V-Baby is the 32 bit SKR 1.3 from Bigtreetech
• LCD Controller – 1x
  For controlling the printer we use the TFT24 from Bigtreetech which has both the standard Marlin reprap 12864 controller mode but also touch screen interface you can switch between
• Stepper Drivers
  • XY Stepper Drivers – 4x (UART Option)
    TMC2209 Uart is the prefered driver
• Fans
  • 3010 Layer Fan – 2x
    2 pcs 3010 Turbo blowers for cooling the filament
  • 4010 Heatsink Fan – 1x
    Turbo fan for cooling the hotend heatsink
  • 4010 Controller Fan – 2x
    Two axial fans for the controller cabinet. One for cooling the drivers blowing in and one for wenting the cabinet blowing out
• Optical Endstops – 2x
  Endstops for XY. This is a cheap packet of 6
• Leveling Probe and Z Endstop -1x
  Probe for mesh bed leveling and Z endstop function
• Build Plate Silicon AC Heater – 1x
  500W Silicone heater for fast and stable heating of the aluminum build plate – Choose the mains voltage in your country. 220Vac or 110Vac
• Solid State Relay – 1x
  SSR for switching the heater for the build plate. We use the 40A version
• Thermal Safety Fuse – 1x
  Thermal fuse for disconnecting the current if the SSR fails and build plate overheats. Connects to the Live wire and attach to the aluminum build plate
• V6 type Hotend – 1x
  If you want the best you should buy the genuine e3d V6 from e3d. The link goes to one of the better cloned e3d V6 hotend
• Titan type Extruder – 1x
  The link goes to one of the better cloned Titan extruders. If you want the best you should buy the genuine e3d Titan Extruder
• PTFE Bowden Tube – 1x
  Tube for guiding the filament from the extruder to the hotend. You need around 60cm so buy 1 meter of PTFE 1.9 ID – 4OD
• Power Supply -1x
  Choose the mains voltage in your country – 220vac/110vac Power supply for running the 3d printer controller and switching the SSR for the heatbed
• Fused Power Switch – 1x
  10A Switch 250VAC power switch for switching the current to the power supply
• Timing Belt – 5m
  High quality GT2 gates type timing belt for accurate movements. You need about 5 meter in total
• Timing Belt Motor Pulleys
  • 5mm ID Pulley for XY – 2x
    Pulleys for driving the timing belt in the XY plane. Use 5mm bore for these to fit on the stepper motor
  • 8mm ID Pulley for Z – 1x
    Pulley for driving the timing belt in the Z plane. Use 8mm bore for this to fit on the 8mm worm drive axle
• High Quality Idlers
  • Toothed Timing Belt Idler – 7x (W 7mm with t)
    Toothed idler for running on the toothed side of the belt for accurate and smooth movements
  • Smooth Timing Belt Idler – 6x ( W 7mm without t)
    Smooth idler for running on the back smooth side of the belt
• Nema 17 1.5A Stepper Motors – 3x
  Stepper motors for running the XY and E including 1M cable and connectors
• Z Axis Worm Drive Stepper – 1x (30/1)
  Stepper motor and gearbox for running the Z axis timing belt lifting the Z axis and keeping the build plate from falling when not powered
• Aluminum Build Plate – 1x (1/4″mm 210×210)
  You want a solid sheet of metal for a stable and reliable print result. I recommend minimum 5 mm thick aluminum to avoid warping and to keep a stable temperature. You can go up to 8mm for this